Deciding what to do and see in Tokyo depends on how much time you have – and for your sake, we hope you have a month. The city’s streets can feel like a game of soccer played at hyper speed, while calmer attractions range from temples, museums, gardens, origami classes, and bohemian sojourns. Tokyo has more than enough going on to put you in a tizzy, so a word of advice: Arrive with a game plan and prepare to get lost along the way, in a good way. Here are the very best things to do in Tokyo right now.
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Senso-ji
Tokyo may not have as many temples as Kyoto, but Senso-ji isn’t the capital city’s most popular just by default. The atmosphere alone here is one for the bucket list. Senso-ji, the temple itself, is at the end of the shopping street, while a recently renovated five-story pagoda stands to the left (ranking as the second tallest pagoda in Japan). Japanese visitors flutter around a large cauldron in front of the temple where incense burned inside is said to benefit good health. Travellers keen to avoid crowds should arrive early, but even tourists who are remotely interested in Japanese culture will find something to appreciate here.
2R65P9B Kichijoji Station Hamonica YokochoAmana images inc./Alamy
Harmonica Yokocho
This clutch of narrow alleys, a short walk from the north exit of JR Kichijoji station, is stuffed to the gills with hole-in-the-wall eateries. A yellow sign marks the entrance to Harmonica Yokocho, which takes its name from the layout of the vendors, slotted cheek-to-jowl along the passageways like the reeds in a harmonica. The atmospheric network of lanes started out as a post-war flea market in the 1940s, but the area underwent a transformation in the 90s when bustling bars and restaurants made their entrance onto the scene. It has a laid-back and hyper-local feel, especially during the daytime when you’ll find fishmongers and traditional sweets makers plying their trades.
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Tokyo Skytree
Topping off at 2,080 feet, the Tokyo Skytree is the tallest tower (that's tower, not building) in the world. From the broadcast tower’s 360-degree observation decks, the whole city – its striking skyscrapers and neon intersections – looks like a magical circuit board. It’s a major tourist attraction, and a ticket isn’t cheap (up to ¥3,400, or £18, for combo tickets), but even if you don’t pay to go inside, there’s no denying that the Tokyo Skytree brought the skyline to a whole new level. Depending on where you’re staying, it can be an out-of-the-way trip to eastern Tokyo (luckily, a train station gets you right near the entrance). Families with children will enjoy the experience – especially the speedy elevator rides – as will anyone who loves a jaw-dropping view.
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Sakurai Tea Experience
Copper and wood greet you inside this minimalist sanctuary dedicated to sado, the Japanese “way of tea.” A small retail space filled with glass jars containing 30 varieties of green tea conceals an intimate eight-seat cafe. Founder Shinya Sakurai studied for 14 years to become a master, and his modern take on the tea ceremony is meditative and illuminating. As Sakurai prepares the infusions behind an L-shaped wooden counter, a continuous stream of water flows from a copper tap – a symbol of purification. Gyokuro, a luxurious variety of green tea grown in the shade, is the speciality here. Sakurai travels the country to select the leaves, which he roasts daily in-house. The tasting flight for ¥4,800 (about £25.50) is the best introduction to the range of teas on offer.
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Shibuya Crossing
Anyone remotely impressed that Tokyo is the most populated city in the world should visit the world’s busiest intersection at Shibuya Crossing. Massive video screens flashing advertisements tower above every corner as black-suited salarymen, wide-eyed tourists, and bag-toting shoppers wait and cross in concert. The feeling is oddly soothing, a reminder that whatever our disparate paths in life, they all have a tendency to cross at one time or another. The best time to go is at dusk, one of the scramble’s peak times and in its most flattering light. The Shibuya Scramble Square tower above Shibuya station offers a bird’s eye view of the famous crossing, along with panoramic vistas of the city from the Shibuya Sky rooftop observatory, perched 230 metres above street level.
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Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden
Fancy a stroll in a Japanese garden? Get that and more at Shinjuku Gyoen. In addition to native, traditional gardens, the 144-acre park pockets French Formal and English Landscape gardens, all of which are worth the modest entrance fee. Landmarks are stunning and impossible to forget like a Taiwan Pavilion perched along a serene pond. Formerly an imperial garden, it became a national garden after World War II – so you can trust that this precious plot is always beautifully maintained. Don’t miss cherry blossom season.
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Kappabashi Street
Kappabashi Street, a district between Ueno and Asakusa, isn’t so much a food destination as it is a food-adjacent destination: While it’s devoted to the restaurant industry, fresh food isn’t why folks come. Instead, the street is a chef’s dream of restaurant supply stores that are known best for sampuru, replicas of food dishes that are part of a century-old craft – and are up for grabs. And, because it’s more trade-focused than tourist-focused, the prices can be somewhat economical. Have any curious cooks in the family? This district is their souvenir heaven.
Azuki to Kouri
Azuki to Kouri
The clean-lined, slate-grey interior of this kakigori ice specialist sets off the ebullient shaved ice creations of pâtissier Miho Horio. Formerly of two-Michelin-starred restaurant Florilege, Horio is one of the young chefs elevating the sweet treat to new heights of refinement. She carefully adjusts the blade of her ice machine to shave blocks of ice – made with spring water from Nikko, north of Tokyo – into fluffy, feathery flakes. Shaping the shavings into a delicate mound, she adds fresh fruit and toppings such as homemade syrups, compotes, and foams. Her signature parfait showcases sweet azuki red beans – the classic kakigori topping for which the café is named – paired with cream and flecks of meringue. Seasonal offerings include salted cherry blossoms with fresh strawberries in spring, and blood orange dusted with grated Amazonian cacao in early summer.
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Yoyogi Park
Yoyogi Park is one of the most amusing parks in Tokyo. Its 134 acres sprawl right in Shibuya, a short skip from Harajuku, and bustle with picnics and performers. The northern side is lush, with clean walkways along expansive, grassy lawns where locals and tourists spread under the shade of Japanese Zelkova trees, and gather around a large pond. Spot impromptu badminton team swinging racquets, a drum circle tapping away at the bongo, or amateur dancers following along to the beat.
Yayoi Kusama Museum
Yayoi Kusama Museum
In a suburban part of Shinjuku, a smooth white building rises five stories high – a museum completely devoted to the works of Yayoi Kusama. The building looks slim, but it houses a bulk of the larger-than-life and avant-garde artist’s pieces, including an installation of her “infinity room” series (an Instagram sensation which, in the past, drew hundreds of thousands of visitors in stateside exhibitions) to polka-dotted paintings and sculptures. The museum changes its exhibition two times a year, and as it’s still relatively new, it’s only cracked the surface of the prolific artist’s work.
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Kuge Crafts
The traditional technique of mending pottery with lacquer sprinkled with gold dust, kintsugi is an art form unto itself. The practice, which dates back to the 15th century, is alive and well at Kuge Crafts, a ceramics studio in the quiet Shin-Koenji neighbourhood of western Tokyo. Run by a family of artisans – Yoshiichiro and Yoshiko Kuge, together with their son, Shu – the atelier transforms broken cups and dishes into singular works of art and offers two-hour kintsugi lessons (¥8,000, or about £43) for learners of all levels. The workshop will provide all the materials; you can bring your own damaged vessel for repair or ask them to prepare a piece for you to work on.
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Sumo at Ryogoku Kokugikan
Only three of six official grand sumo tournaments happen in Tokyo, all at Ryogoku Kokugikan. The stadium houses over 11,000 eager fans under its green, pavilion-style roof. Official tournaments last just over two weeks each, which means Ryogoku Kokugikan sometimes hosts other events (boxing, for example). But sumo is the arena’s feature attraction, and if you’re hoping to see sumo in Tokyo, this is where to find it. Tamari seats, which are those immediately surrounding the ring, are the most coveted – and virtually impossible to score. But the next series of rows, box seats, are as close as you can get. Box seats are top-dollar but little more than rows of tatami mats lined with red square cushions (with no backs) sold in groups of four – so cosy up and pay up (¥38,000, or about £203 for a box). There are proper stadium seats along the second-floor mezzanine, but the thrill of witnessing this traditional Japanese sport up close is all about getting comfortable with the floor.
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The Bellwood
The Bellwood
Modelled after an early 20th-century Japanese coffee house, this swanky watering hole is fitted with modern-retro touches like a stained glass panel bearing the bar’s name, bookended by images of Mount Fuji and a martini under the moon. The main space is great for after-work drinks or late-night tipples, but the bar recently opened a glass-encased private room to host a series of food-and-cocktail pairing experiments. Witty twists on classic cocktails are prepared with flair. Start light with the Kome Tonic, made with rice-based shochu, then explore the seasonal menu: Tango Mule made with gin, and Fernet Branca laced with a roasted mate, or the Okushibu Fashioned with bourbon, kinako soy powder and a hint of bitter mugwort.
Nihon Minka-en Japan Open-air Folk House Museum
Nihon Minka-en Japan Open-air Folk House Museum
Though only 20 minutes by train from central Tokyo, the Nihon Minka-En Japan Open-Air Folk House Museum, located in a suburb of neighbouring Kawasaki City, feels a world – and several centuries – away. The sprawling grounds are home to 25 marvellously preserved Edo-era homes relocated from all over the Japanese countryside, spanning an array of styles from farmhouses to samurai houses and including a shrine, water mill and kabuki stage. Don’t miss the traditional indigo dyeing workshop in the middle of the park houses a small shop where you can find indigo-dyed everything, from socks and sweaters to handkerchiefs and masks.
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Courtesy Koffee Mame Kakeru
Koffee Mameya Kakeru
Don't expect your average cup of joe at Koffee Mameya Kakeru, housed in a renovated warehouse in the Shirakawa coffee district in eastern Tokyo. Beyond the sleek glass facade, the interior, designed by art director Tomohiro Kato and architect Yosuke Hayashi, features a massive oak structure built around the artfully arranged coffee shelves. A rectangular wooden frame encases a three-sided stone counter built around three black tables where the baristas display their skills. Coffee maestro and founder Eiichi Kumimoto launched Koffee Mameya Kakeru to go deep into the world of the brew and push the boundaries of the drink's potential. The menu showcases seasonal varieties, but the omakase-style coffee-tasting courses (including a range of cold and milk brews, mocktails, and lattes) take centre stage, offering a fascinating journey through the diverse flavours and artistry of coffee. Coffee cocktail champion Akira Zushi dazzles with flair bartending skills and innovative cocktails like the milk brew blended with hop-accented jasmine tea and lemon, finished with a spritz of prickly ash water.
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Oedo Antique Market
Oedo Antique Market is a marvellous outdoor fair held near Tokyo Station twice a month, with stalls selling wonderful antique and vintage wares. Hundreds of independent stallholders set up shop to sell their one-of-a-kind objects. There isn’t a huge number of antique or vintage homeware shops in Tokyo – so if you’re looking for old, interesting, and unique Japanese items for your home, this is the place to come. The items on sale at Oedo are completely one-off and unique. You’d be hard-pressed to find a permanent shop in Tokyo that has the choice and style that you’ll find here. For first dibs, come earlier in the day.
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Kyu Asakura House
Built-in 1919, the former residence of government official Torajiro Asakura is a marvellously preserved example of traditional Japanese architecture tucked into Tokyo’s bustling Daikanyama district. For ¥100 (about 50 pence), you can wander through the building’s stately wooden corridors, tatami-floored rooms, and beautifully manicured grounds. The suginoma (cedar rooms) on the west side of the structure offer postcard-perfect views of the Japanese garden – particularly in the autumn when the maple trees blaze with colour. One of the city’s best-kept secrets, the property is an oasis of calm. It’s the perfect place to escape the crowds for an hour or two and contemplate the passing of time.
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Nakameguro
It’s okay to visit the artsy neighbourhood of Nakameguro just to see its seasonal appeal as one of the most picture-perfect spots for cherry blossoms in spring. However, stick around these charming streets, and you’ll find a hip collection of independent cafes and boutiques that offer a laid-back alternative to the city’s buzzing hubs. Sakura trees hug the Meguro River in Nakameguro’s centre, blossoming as they lean over the sloped, canal-like walls surrounding the water. Once you’ve taken a moment to smell the blossoms (and fill your phone with pictures), you’ll find an array of independent boutiques and cafes branching off along narrow streets in either direction. Head to the corner-side Onibus Coffee, which serves single-origin espresso, and stop at SML, a boutique stocking delightful crafts (especially ceramics) made by Japanese artists.
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JGGWEJ Nakano Broadway - a shopping complex in Tokyo, JapanCoward Lion/Alamy
Nakano Broadway
A Tokyo mecca for anime- and manga-loving otaku subculture fans, the Nakano Broadway is a multi-story shopping arcade that has become a hub for niche collectors of all stripes. When it first opened in 1966, the complex epitomised the spirit of future-perfect economic optimism sparked by the Tokyo Olympics. Competition from newer shopping malls emptied its corridors of fancy boutiques in the 80s before Broadway reinvented itself as a centre for used manga and anime models in the 90s. More than 300 tiny outlets are crammed into the ageing edifice’s bottom five floors, offering everything from vintage Godzilla and Astroboy figurines to designer watches and creepy dolls galore.
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Isetan
Isetan is Tokyo’s best – and most famous – department store; its history dates back to 1886, when it started as a kimono shop. The sprawling flagship in Shinjuku is spread out over nine floors, each offering something special. There’s a big fashion focus, with local Japanese brands sitting beside international names. Don’t miss a visit to the wonderful food hall on B1, which sells a variety of Japanese snacks and goodies, including beautifully prepared bento boxes for lunch.
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Tsukiji Market
In October 2018, the world’s largest fish market, Tsukiji, shut down after 83 years and re-opened in two distinct parts. At the original location, it’s pretty much business as usual, with street-food stalls serving up everything from seared tuna to uni sandwiches in squid-ink sticky buns. Just down the road at Toyosu Market, meanwhile, you can taste fresh raw fish in a series of sushi bars and peek in on the auctions (formerly held at Tsukiji) and live fish sales from a second-story viewing station. You can also tour a large green space on the rooftop, which affords views of the Tokyo skyline.
Courtesy Heiwa Shuzo
Heiwa Doburoku Brewery Kabutocho
This simple but stylish Wakayama-based sake brewpub in Tokyo makes clever use of a corner space in Kabutocho, the recently hip neighbourhood near the Tokyo Stock Exchange building. As the name suggests, the bar specialises in doburoku, a rustic style of unfiltered and lightly fermented sake characterised by its thick texture. Previously outlawed for taxation reasons, the traditional brew is making a comeback, appearing on menus at Tokyo's trendiest restaurants and bars. Large windows, pale wood fixtures, and a curved counter surrounding a small open kitchen give the bar an open and airy feel. The menu lists dry-hopped and aged doburoku, varieties made with ground adzuki red beans or black beans, and a few seasonal styles flavoured with fruits or herbs. But the best place to start is with the original, plain doburoku, a thick and yogurty brew with a touch of fruity fizz. Brewer Heiwa Shuzo's excellent craft beers are served on tap (we love the golden ale infused with fragrant sansho prickly ash peppercorns), and the bar offers a nice selection of the brewery's clear, award-winning sake.
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Nezu Museum
This serene museum in the Aoyama district, redesigned by celebrated architect Kengo Kuma, is a contemporary temple for traditional art. A long, covered outdoor path alongside bamboo-clad walls serves as a minimalist entrance, but once inside, double-height interiors and glass walls stretch over 40,000 square feet while keeping the experience intimate. And while the museum mixes contemporary design and traditional art on the inside – over 7,400 pieces – the outside counts, too: The property is home to a stunning private garden that’s worth the visit all on its own. The bulk of the museum’s art was once the private collection of Nezu Kaichirō, the president of Japan’s Tobu Railway. Since the midcentury, the collection has grown and now comprises over 7,400 pieces.
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Bohemian Tokyo in Shimokitazawa
Only one express stop away from the brighter-than-bright energy of Shibuya, Shimokita (what locals call Shimokitazawa) is like turning down the volume and switching to an acoustic track. It might embrace its bohemian style – with vintage stores on seemingly every block – but it doesn’t lose that unmistakable, sophisticated Japanese style in the process. Sift through secondhand shops, sip coffee, and repeat.
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Monzen-Nakacho
The old-school neighbourhood of Monzen-Nakacho – known as “Mon-Naka” among locals – has retained its colourful, salt-of-the-earth shitamachi (downtown) atmosphere since the Edo era (1603-1868). Two main draws are the stately Tomioka Hachiman Shrine and the Fukagawa Fududo temple, where you can hear the sounds of drumming and chanting from the temple’s fire ceremony, held five times a day. These days, hipster coffee shops and natural wine boîtes nestle against traditional shops selling pickles, Japanese confections, and old-timey delicacies like tsukudani – bits of seafood long-simmered in soy sauce and sugar. It’s a terrific place to spend a lazy afternoon wandering the cobbled streets and alleyways en route to the Museum of Contemporary Art in neighbouring Kiba. But at night, the neighbourhood comes alive with an array of reasonably priced eating and drinking spots.
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teamLab Borderless
With the first iteration of Borderless in Odaiba, the art collective Teamlab created an endlessly Instagrammable, sumptuous and surreal museum dedicated to multi-sensory digital art. Opened in 2018, the facility, which set the world record for the most visited museum dedicated to a single artist, closed its doors in 2022. However, Borderless 2.0 is set to relocate to a permanent location in the soon-to-open Azabudai Hills mixed-use complex in central Tokyo in early 2024. Boderless consists of installations that feature constantly morphing patterns and designs that seem to flow seamlessly from room to room in a maze-like space. Updated versions of some of the museum’s previous works will be on display, as well as several new installations: a room filled with hundreds of multicoloured lights that run along tracks continuously and a series of interactive “light sculptures,” to name a few.
Koganeyu
Sleek design, a DJ booth, and craft beer on tap: The newly refurbished Koganeyu functions as a lively standing bar and community events space, but the main reason to visit this 89-year-old establishment is to immerse yourself in Tokyo’s sento (public sauna) culture. A crowdfunded renovation has transformed the space into a contemporary sento with four pools, a sauna, and an outdoor bath. Bathing areas for men and women are separated by a 2.2-metre partial wall, while a mural depicting Mount Fuji stretches across both areas like a scroll. You can purchase tickets from the vending machine at the entrance; a 90-minute bathing session costs about £3 for adults. After emerging from the baths, relax with a glass of craft beer brewed especially for Koganeyu, or try a homemade ginger highball.